ALEXANDER'S JOURNEY
Diatribe is a weekly opinionative column by Dean Kalimniou, which is published in Melbourne's Neos Kosmos English Edition Newspaper. It deals generally with issues of interest to the Greek Community in Australia.
It is only when the fire burns to ashes, when the embers are glowing, that cooking, and warmth is possible. Similarly, in George Vassilacopoulos’ latest poetry collection: Ashpoems, we are presented with the smouldering verses of a poetry that having been consigned to the flames of fervour emerges as a philosophical and sensuous meditation on existence, shaped by a Platonist framework that privileges the erotic, not as divine ecstasy nor as political passion, but as an immanent condition of being. His verse, or at least its “ashmemories” contemplates the cosmos not as a transcendent or hierarchical order, but as the felt, relational field of human presence—a shared reality that is loved through the loving of others. As he says: “I gather/ The elsewhere in you/ Around my neck/ Into a charm/ For the Bad Omens/ Of the next poem.”
The Hellenic Museum of Melbourne’s most recent
exhibition, Rituals: Gifts for the Gods,
is not merely a curated display of antiquities, but a contemplative pilgrimage
through the spiritual psyche of the ancient Greek world. It is an eloquent
testament to the sacral imagination of a civilisation that perceived the divine
not as an abstraction relegated to distant heavens, but as a living, breathing
presence interwoven with every facet of mortal existence. With unerring
precision and deep cultural empathy, the exhibition maps the arc of ritual
practice from the Minoan epoch to the Hellenistic age, revealing not the
detritus of a bygone religiosity, but the luminous thread that binds the
ancient with the modern, the sacred with the secular, the individual with the
cosmos.
What emerges is a vision of ritual not as a
fossilised rite or performative gesture, but as a sacred grammar through which
the ancients negotiated their place in an ordered yet mysterious universe. Each
artefact, each fragment of votive expression, is imbued with the breath of
supplication, the tremor of fear, the serenity of faith. As Sarah Craig, the
Hellenic Museum’s visionary CEO, affirms, the exhibition compels us to
recognise that the yearning for ritual is not a culturally bounded phenomenon,
but a deep-seated human instinct: one that transcends ethnicity and epoch, and
invites us into the shared sanctity of human experience.
In the Greek cosmos, the sacred was not
encountered solely within the columned grandeur of temples or the solemnity of
public festival. It was born in the flicker of a household flame, in the
whispered prayer, in the libation poured to unseen presences at the crossroads.
Ritual was the breath of life itself: a sacred choreography through which order
was sustained and chaos transfigured. This exhibition renders visible that
metaphysical intimacy: the conviction that the gods dwelled not apart from the
world, but within its very substance, within the home, the grove, the city, and
the body.
The visitor is drawn first into the world of the
Minoans, where divinity was encountered through the fecund rhythms of nature.
Here, ritual was an invocation of renewal, inscribed upon the earth itself:
performed in subterranean caves and lofty peak sanctuaries, in open-air altars
and labyrinthine palatial courts. The divine was female, serpentine, vegetal,
and cyclical: manifest in priestess and bull, in double axe and spiral. It was
a vision of sacred continuity that enfolded life, death, and rebirth into a
single, sacred breath.
As one moves through the Mycenaean and Archaic
landscapes and into the Classical period, the divine order expands in splendour
and complexity. The Olympian deities assume their majestic thrones, and the
cultic apparatus of the polis rises with solemn beauty. Yet the exhibition, in
its profound insight, does not linger on the splendour of processions or the
magnitude of temples. Instead, it draws our gaze to the votive: small,
intimate, and often crude, where the true pulse of faith is felt. These are the
artefacts of the common soul, whispered into clay or marble with trembling
hands, left in the sacred precinct as silent appeals for mercy, for healing,
for hope.
These votive offerings, in the form of figurines,
libation vessels and inscribed tablets, speak with quiet eloquence of a society
in which the sacred was not removed from the pain and joy of the flesh, but was
responsive to it. Each object represents not merely a transaction with the
divine, but a revelation of the inner topography of the devotee: the longing,
the vulnerability, the recognition of forces beyond human ken. Here, ritual
becomes not only an act of reverence, but also, of self-disclosure.
Among the most affecting are the anatomical
votive: terracotta and stone effigies of limbs, eyes, breasts and other body
parts, dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing. These votives bear witness
to a theology of suffering and restoration, to a sacred economy wherein pain is
transmuted through ritual into meaning and grace. They are at once acts of
beseeching and proclamation, tokens of affliction and testaments of
deliverance. Their mute, fragmentary forms speak volumes about the human desire
not only to be healed, but to sanctify suffering, to place it in relation to
the divine.
It is in these offerings that the most startling
continuum is revealed, one that spans millennia without interruption. For these
anatomical votives, far from relics of a vanished age, find their modern
analogue in the τάματα still lovingly placed before icons in Orthodox churches
today. Crafted from silver or tin, these contemporary ex-votos, depicting eyes,
limbs, infants, or entire human figures, are identical in function and
intention to those of antiquity. They are prayers made flesh, expressions of a
faith that refuses to fade. The exhibition thus permits the viewer who is aware
of both traditions to make a connection that will facilitate them beholding an
unbroken line of devotional expression that transcends Time itself.
This juxtaposition is not merely aesthetic. It
reveals both the stubborn durability of ritual form, and the capacity of sacred
gesture to adapt and endure across seismic shifts in theology, polity, and
cosmology. In these artefacts, one perceives that ritual is not the province of
dogma, but of the human spirit itself, a vessel for the eternal needs of hope,
gratitude, and connection. The shape changes; the impulse remains.
As an exhibition, “Rituals” is also attuned to
the public dimensions of ritual in its civic, social, and psychological roles.
In ancient Greece, rituals were the fabric from which society was woven.
Festivals such as the Panathenaia or the Dionysia were more than acts of
collective worship: they were affirmations of civic identity, instruments of
cultural memory, and mechanisms of intergenerational transmission. Through such
rituals, citizens participated in the mythic past and affirmed their place in
the communal order.
A reconstructed domestic altar featured in the
exhibition speaks powerfully to the intimate spaces in which sacred time
unfolded. It gestures to the often-overlooked agency of women in sustaining
ritual life within the oikos: tending to hearth deities, guiding children
through rites of passage, and honouring the dead. In these quiet, private
spaces, ritual was no less potent; it was the axis upon which the rhythm of
family and cosmos turned.
Equally, ritual served as a balm in times of
existential uncertainty. In moments of illness, transition, or misfortune, the
Greeks of old did not turn inward, but outward: toward ritual gestures that
transfigured fear into supplication, chaos into cosmos. Purification rites,
oracular consultations, and sacrificial offerings constituted a symbolic
architecture through which the inscrutable could be rendered bearable. Ritual,
in this context, was not ceremony: it was salvation. Those of us for with
transplanted memories and experiences of our ancestral villages will
instinctively sympathise and understand.
What the exhibition ultimately reveals is that
ritual is not a cultural embellishment but an ontological necessity. It arises
from the human compulsion to order experience, to locate suffering within a
moral and metaphysical framework, to enact the sacred in the midst of the
profane. It is through ritual that we come to terms with finitude, with
longing, with the mystery that undergirds existence itself.
Thus, Rituals: Gifts for the
Gods surpasses its immediate thematic remit to articulate a
broader, more urgent truth: that ritual is the foundation upon which all
cultures, all identities, all human communities rest. As Sarah Craig observes,
the exhibition is not an insular act of cultural self-regard, but a gesture of
inclusion; a bridge between times, peoples, and faiths. In a world beset by
fragmentation, alienation, and dislocation, the exhibition offers a luminous
counterpoint: a vision of continuity, of shared humanity, and of transcendent
connection.
It is within this expansive humanistic vision
that the Hellenic Museum finds its highest purpose. It is not a mausoleum of
antiquity, but a crucible of dialogue, a sacred space where the legacy of
Hellenism is neither fossilised nor fetishised, but interrogated, reimagined,
and made relevant to the living concerns of the present. Through exhibitions
such as “Rituals”, the Museum offers the Greek diaspora and the populace at
large, the opportunity to situate themselves within the continuum of a
civilisation whose rituals, though ancient, remain urgently contemporary.
For those of us living at the confluence of
memory and migration, Rituals: Gifts for the Gods
becomes something more than an academic exercise. It becomes a mirror through
which we glimpse ourselves: fractured, searching, and yearning for meaning. It
invites us to retrieve what has been forgotten, to name what has been unspoken,
to craft out of fragments a coherent self, or at least, to recognise those
fragments, disparate and often unintelligible as part of a multi0faceted and
infinitely complex whole. In this sacred encounter between artefact and
identity, the Hellenic Museum performs its most vital work: enabling us to
reconstitute our place in the world, not as displaced inheritors of a fading
tradition, but as conscious participants in a living, breathing cultural ethos.
In summoning the sacred past into the present
moment, the exhibition reminds us that we are never severed from our origins:
that the gods we honour, the invocations we intone, the rituals we perform, endure
within us, awaiting remembrance. And in remembering, we become whole.
DEAN KALIMNIOU
First published in NKEE on Saturday 7 June
2025
"Despite their promises at the last
Election, the politicians had not yet changed the climate" Evelyn Waugh, 'Love Among the Ruins' 1953.
Giorgio de Chirico, one of my favourite
artists, painted “The Melancholy of the Politician in 1913. A metaphysical
masterpiece that explores themes of isolation, alienation, and the human
condition. Using a unique blend of classical architecture, everyday objects,
and distorted perspective to create a dreamlike, almost surreal atmosphere that
evokes a sense of unease and mystery, he poses the question: just how much of a
politician can you be in a polis bereft of citizens? The statue of a politician
looms large over an empty square populated by the silhouette of a person. Is
this also a politician, one who seeks validation by the petrified and the
departed? Or a citizen, vainly looking for someone to vote for?
It is exactly this scene that I envisaged when
I came upon a most animated friend passionately handing out leaflets on my way
to the ballot box, a few weeks ago. I thought I would provoke him by refusing
to take his leaflet. To his question as to why I was refusing direction, I
pointed him gently in the direction of doyen of the Greek Enlightenment,
Iosipos Moisiodax, who asked in 1761, as I did at that moment:
"And what benefit does the
state expect from a politician who regards custom and legality indifferently as
one and the same thing: who has neither learned, nor shows any desire to learn,
what is law, or what is polity?"
My friend persisted, extolling
the virtues of the candidate he was tasked with spruiking, and desperately
cajoled me into at least tarrying in order for him to complete the entire sales
pitch, but I was having none of it. Instead, I referred him to the Ancient
Greek tragedy “Hecuba” where, commenting on Odysseus intention to sacrifice her
daughter Polyxena to the spirit of Achilles, even though Hecuba has saved
Odysseus’ life, the Trojan Queen rails against: “these politicians who cringe
for favours from a screaming mob and do not care what harm they do to their
friends.”
By way of riposte, my friend
demanded that I show him which daughters were sacrificed by his party, in order
for this to form the basis of my argument, arguing that I was talking
excrement. I shrugged his copronymic assertion aside, reminding him of when,
returning to his native Tarsus philosopher Athenodoros had his front door
smeared in excrement by partisans of his rival Boethius, Athenodoros wrote:
“One may recognize the city’s illness and disaffection in many ways, and
particularly from its excrement.” We are after all kin of the Modern Greek αγανακτισμένοι.
This in no way dampened my
interlocutor’s fervour. He wanted to know what my political philosophy was, in
order, as he maintained, to prove to me that his candidate was aligned with my
views. This is an easy task, for such views as I may hold are best expressed by
the queen of political activism and dissidence, Lysistrata, who Aristophanes
quotes as proclaiming:
"If you had any sense, you
would handle all your affairs in the way we handle wool....
First of all, just like washing
out a raw fleece, you should wash the sheep-dung out of the body politic in a
bath, then put it on a bed, beat out the villains with a stick and pic off the
burrs; and as for those people who combine and mat themselves to gain office,
you should card them out and pluck off the heads. Then card the wool into the
work-basket of union and concord, mixing in everyone; and the immigrants, and
any foreigner who is friendly to you, and anyone who is in debt to the
treasury, they should be mixed in as well.... and then make a great ball of
wool, and from that weave a warm cloak for the people to wear." Even back then, Lysistrata was proud to be Union.
The shadows were lengthening,
like those in De Chrico’s empty, windswept square, and still the candidate, who
I was asked to wait for and meet, and not materialised. As we waited, we mused
at how gerontocratic Greek community politics is, as compared to Australian
politics where renewal is the norm. My friend, of a conservative bent,
considered that as our ancient forebears were wise and that wisdom comes with
age, the origins of our gerontocracy must lie therein. I disagreed vehemently.
In closing his argument as to why old men should remain active in politics,
Plutarch digresses, explaining why certain statues of Hermes are designed the
way they are:
“That is why representations of
Hermes showing him as an old man are created with no hands or feet, but with
erect member: the intimation is that there is little need for physical vigour
in old men, but they should have, as is fitting, a fertile and productive
reason.” This then is the reason why so many elderly
members of our community hang onto their positions in brotherhoods with such
tenacity and insist on playing politics. It also explains why many Australian
contenders in the game tarry longer than they should in search of the elusive
fourth term. It helps with their love life.
When the candidate did arrive, at the very end
of the day, there were few people to greet him with a cheer. One of his
supporters uttered the un-Australian political war-cry “Booyah” which left me
completed gobsmacked. Enquiring as to why I was so visibly moved, I confided in
my friend that that the American exclamation used to express triumph
"Booyah!" actually comes from the Souliote War Cry
"Boowah!" and we have Lord Byron's poem "Song to the
Suliotes" to prove it:
“Up
to battle! Sons of Suli
Up,
and do your duty duly!
There
the wall — and there the Moat is:
Bouwah!
Bouwah! Suliotes!
There
is booty — there is Beauty,
Up
my boys and do your duty.”
Best
election campaign theme song since “It’s Time,” if you ask me.
I
didn’t speak to the candidate. Crisp, clean and eminently a poster boy for
Anglo-Saxon vitality, I sidled inside the polling booth, therein to perform my
democratic rites. Emerging from the sanctum of the polis, I did not deign to
respond to my friend’s entreaties to reveal for whom I had voted, by advising
him instead that in 2016, in voting for the President of Lebanon, a Lebanese MP
wrote "Zorba the Greek" on the ballot. It was noted (in accordance
with the power sharing arrangements between religious groups in Lebanon) that
Zorba was a Greek Orthodox Christian, while according to the Constitution the
President must be a Maronite (Catholic) Christian. A true but bizarre story.
Inspired by the Lebanese politician and
suffering the malevolent after-effects of a rather contrary democracy sausage
upon my digestive system as commensurate
to the quality of the argument I had advanced with to friend previously, I
considered those who would do away with the right to choose altogether and
caused to be posted the following piece of frivolity upon my social media page:
“In
breaking news it has been announced that in order to effect the necessary
cost-cutting needed to bring Australia back from the brink of financial
collapse, the Australian Labor Party is merging with the Antiochian Orthodox
Church.
Since
its prelates are appointed directly from Antioch, Syria (a place infinitely
more accessible than Canberra) rather than having politicians be elected,
elections will henceforth be abolished. Instead, the victor will be popularly
acclaimed with the words “Axios!” pronounced with a lisp.
This
will save Australia billions in puerile advertising costs, cheesy photo shoots
and will achieve Economies of scale and efficiency as politicians dispense with
the need to pretend to listen and claim they care about the electorate.
Electorates
will be abolished and replaced with parishes. The first order of business will
be to excommunicate the Trumpet and his Patriots and reconcile with the Greens
but only on Palm Sunday and Saint Patrick’s Day.
Given
that Dutton comes from the Greek άδυτον, a holy sacred place where one may not
enter, he will be excluded from the running.”
It
was only when reading Tacitus that night that I recalled that acclamation by “Axios”
is a process infinitely fraught with danger. Long associated with
approbation and acclamation, ἄξιος is the only word the Roman general Gnaeus
Domitius Corbulo uttered when in arriving at Cenchreae, the port of Corinth,
messengers from mad emperor Nero met the general and ordered him to commit
suicide. Undaunted, he strode forward to accept his fate, and fell on his own
sword after exclaiming, "Axios!"
Best stick to ballots and preferences, albeit
in desolate squares, after all.
DEAN KALIMNIOU
First published in NKEE on Saturday 31 May 2025
Honestly,
the goings on of the Ministry of Culture of the Hellenic Republic make a person
with the future of the race at heart despair. I mean serious, imagine getting
stroppy with ADIDAS TM simply
because the good people headquartered in Herzogenaurach, Germany, had the
inspiring idea of placing a colourful drone shoe above the Parthenon.
I remember
as if it were yesterday, being ten years of age, warming my hands in front of
the spit at an aged family friend’s nameday, and being approached by an older
boy, who asked: “Hey, do you know what ADIDAS stands for?”
Had I been
just a few years older, I imagine I would have advanced the opinion that they
stand for the proletariat seizing control of the means of production so that
the production of commodities is done away with, but instead I shrugged my
shoulders. Moving close to my ear, the boy whispered in a hoarse voice: “All
Day I Dream about S*x.”
“Rubbish,”
boomed a voice from the other side of the spit, the purple face of his uncle
contorted in various hues of inebriation. “It stands for “All Day I Dream About
Soviet Union.” Crushing his stubby in his enormous proletarian fist as easily
as he would crack the knuckles of the petit bourgeoisie, he then raised that
fist in comradely salute and fixed us with a glare that would brook no
opposition. I never did sum up the courage to illuminate him, when I found out
years later, that ADIDAS is actually an acronym for the name of the company’s
founder, Adolf "Adi" Dassler.
Viewed from
this perspective, one could never accuse for Minister of Culture Mendoni of
mendacity, in responding to the drone shoe with such fury. Not so long ago,
another Adolf tried to stamp his jackboot on our sacred rock. Now this Adolf is
trying to plant his sneaker upon it. Seriously though, the warning signs were
all there, had we bit paid attention. Take the Adidas trefoil design, which
apparently stands for North America, Europe and Asia, the continents or at
least the markets of said land masses, that Adolf presumably seeks to conquer,
subdue or at least peddle his product in. It was only a matter of time before
his cohorts arrived to press us all under his athletic foot. After all, did not
Adidas recently drop their marketing slogan for twenty years: “Impossible is
Nothing” (a prescient warning to us if there ever was one that anything is
possible, even the appropriation of the Parthenon), to the even more ominous
“You’ve Got This,” no doubt referring to the Acropolis, its environs and all
ticket sales therein?
While
pundits and politician cry foul, something more sinister and profound is going
on here and if the good people at the Ministry of Culture had just heard famed
film director Yiorgos Lanthimos out, rejecting his recent application for
filming rights to the Acropolis, they would have realised that the future of
the world is at stake. For in Bugonia, his in production film, Lanthimos
purports the tale of two conspiracy-obsessed young men who kidnap the
high-powered CEO of a major company, convinced that she is an alien intent on
destroying planet Earth. This, we are told and are expected to believe, is
Science Fiction. And yet that is exactly what they want you to think. The truth
is, that there are two CEO’s of two major companies vying for World Domination
under our very noses and we are completely oblivious.
By now, you
have probably guessed the identity of one of them. As to the other, consider
this: What is the name of the temple to the right of the Propylaea at the
entrance of the sacred precinct of the Acropolis? Ten ADIDAS vouchers to those
of you who answered “the temple of Athena Nike.” Yes, NIKE. And I ask you
gentle reader, have you ever heard or read about any Greek government, its
officials, employees, assigns, clients or general hangers on make a gesture of
at least the slightest disapprobation at this blatant infringement of our
trademark and gross violation of our intellectual property by company b? You
will not find one reference to such a protest anywhere, I promise you. For
Pericles’ sake people, just do it.
So if it is
not the violation itself that incenses the Hellenic populace, for we have
already taken sides surreptitiously in the turf war of the alien companies, one
which Lanthimos in his audacity threatens to disrupt, one can only deduce that
the offending component in the whole story must be the shoe. For this at least,
there is ample cultural evidence. Traditionally, to show the sole of one’s shoe
to someone was a sign of the grossest disrespect, which is why one never sat
with their legs crossed on a chair in front of one’s elders and betters. Here
we have not just a whole sole but an entire shoe resting upon us. Then there is the revolutionary saying: «Παπούτσι από τον τόπο σου κι ας είναι μπαλωμένο» (a shoe from
your own land, even if its is a patched one), a powerful Trumpian protectionist
tariff increasing call to arms if there ever was one, which in breach of
European Union regulations, tells Adolf to go stuff his shoe where the Sun of
Vergina does not shine, since the Greeks have their own local shoe industry, even
if this is comprised primarily of leather sandals in tourist kiosks on the
Cyclades and tsarouhia for Manasis’ Froura in Melbourne.
But one defies
one’s European masters at one’s peril. After all, were they not the ones who in
the recent crisis μας
έβαλαν τα δυο πόδια σε ένα παπούτσι?
And when the people rose up as one and voted resoundingly NO in the referendum
against the TROIKA’s bailout conditions, did they not proceed να μας πατήσουν τον κάλο?
And of course, one needs to consider what our response had been had the shoe
been on the other foot, although it must be said that while Greeks did have
imperialistic proclivities before being taught the error of their ways, you
never saw a Byzantine emperor plant his imperial porphyry buskins on the public
edifices of any of its vassal states. Κλέφτες με ποδήματα, all of
them, I say, and instead of protesting against Adolf, verifying the old adage: «γλώσσα παπούτσι, μυαλό κουκούτσι» perhaps we
should be grateful that our overlords «δεν
μας δίνουν τα παπούτσια στο χέρι» exiling us
beyond the lands of the Union where we shall abide in sparsity and austerity, «με μισό παπούτσι.»
Of
course the corollary of all this may just be that dear old Adolf in planting
his sole upon the soul of our nation, is actually trying to pay us a Teutonic
complement, which is why I rail at the overreaction of the Greek Minister of
Culture. In positioning his shoe upon the columns of the Parthenon, is he not
telling us that the very foundation of his foot-cladding philosophy is based
upon ancient Greece, to whom he owes all? Furthermore, pundits who look into
these things closely with the numerologists in Velopoulos’ Ελληνική Λύση Party,
reliably inform me that the shoe actually does not rest upon the temple itself
but rather, being comprised of drones, hovers above it at the conceptual point
where the entasis of its columns meet, suggesting that all things will
inevitably converge and it is futile to resist. (That by the way I am reliably
informed by my astrologer, will be ADIDAS’s marketing slogan for 2026 and they
have applied for it to also be adopted by the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics
Apparently, they are a shoe in).
If after
this length disquisition, you are not convinced and instead of welcoming Adolf
with open arms, have maintained your rage and your enthusiasm, console yourself
at least in the knowledge that our people have from times ancient developed a
tried and true traditional method of dealing with interlopers, foreign and
domestic. Τους γράφουμε στα παλιά μας τα παπούτσια.
DEAN
KALIMNIOU
kalymnios@hotmail.com
First published in NKEE on Saturday 24 May 2025
Just
imagine, if you will, that you could read a humorous version of the Pentateuch,
written by a particularly witty in-law of a descendant of Abraham, who peppers
her pages with an innumerable quantity of puns and allows you to join her as
she retraces the steps of the patriarchs.
This is
exactly the experience you are presented with when called upon by author
Shelley Dark to sojourn with her in “Hydra in Winter.” Her narrative technique
is one which co-opts you and makes you complicit in her journey of discovery,
compelling you to trust her as your guide, by the simple act of turning the
page. She disarms you, not in the least by calling you “buddy,” but also
because her lucid, chatty, effortlessly accessible prose allows the ready to
transcend time, space, season, and even Greek pronunciation, for which she
displays remarkable aptitude.
The author
of the recently published “Hydra in Winter,” is on a biblical mission. If Genesis
traces the journey of patriarch Abraham from Ur of the Chaldees to the Promised
Land, whence we all come, spiritually or otherwise, “Hydra in Winter” is also a
Testament, attempting to trace the journey of one of our own community
patriarchs from his homeland of Hydra, to Australia. Shelly Dark is perhaps
best placed to do so, because her husband John, is a direct descendant of
Gkikas Voulgaris, also known as Jigger Bulgary, one of the seven first Greeks
to arrive in Australia, having been transported here in 1829 after a conviction
for piracy.
The
author’s attempt to trace our illustrious common ancestor’s journey back to its
source in Hydra is an inspired one, not in the least because in doing so she
puts her finger on the nub of our own ontopathology when it comes to our
founding fathers and our identity as Greek Australians. On the one hand our
national narrative renders our pirates as heroes: bold men who sailed the seas
on a quest to liberate and defend their nation, defeat their enemies and
compound their foes with feats of ingenuity, audacity and downright genius. On
the other hand, Greek-Australian scholars have taken issue with a discourse
that appears to grant their compatriots a convict heritage. It is after all,
before the story of the seven pirates was widely known, an absence of criminality
that comprised one of the elements that differentiated us from the dominant
group’s narrative. Consequently those scholars point to efforts to present the
seven pirates as convicts as symptomatic of a tendency of the ruling class to
cast aspersions upon our pedigree, seeking to transfer to us, their own
identity, possibly in order to make us complicit in their violent seizure of
indigenous land and the assumption of its sovereignty. Is this then the
original sin that is common to all of us?
Happily,
Shelley Dark does not deal in the abstruse and the obscure, although hers is a
pen that is as meticulous in recording details as it is in defying stereotypes.
Hers is not the travelogue or indeed the journey of the tourist, peddling tired
tropes about bouzouki, tzatziki and retsina and indeed on many of her inspired
asides, she expertly is able to open-heartedly play with the expectations and
deep seated cliches that accompany a westerner’s (and not a few latter Greek-Australian
generation’s ) understanding of Greece, (her quip about breaking plates, but
not the ones off the wall, is a case in point). Instead, the cajoles us to
accompany her to not touristic-Greece: Hydra in the off season, which far from
being a sun-drenched paradise is icy cold, and where almost everything is shut.
This is the real Greece, inhabited by real people and this place, as desolate
as Ur itself, is the topos in which Shelley’s drama will unfold.
The
narrative charmingly unfolds in andante prose, a walking pace to accompany our
own steps as we explore the hibernating island. We learn that half the island
is related to the Voulgaris clan, which has played a significant role in the
Greek Revolution. Along the way, we also meet some remarkable elemental
characters who assume Titanic proportions in the way that appear to inhabit in
complete harmony with their surroundings, are inscrutable, incomprehensible and
unpredictable but nonetheless, are warm-hearted, generous, omnipresent and
willing to provide advice, hospitality and assistance.
In true
Indiana Jones style, Shelley Dark’s exertions form a backstory in itself. She
and the reader explore every nook and cranny of the island, which is rightly
called Hydra since like the mythological creature of same name, (and let us not
forget that the Lernaian Hydra was killed by Heracles – which coincidentally or
not, was the name of Voulgaris’ (alleged) pirate ship) each of her lines of
inquiry give rise to another three, as she searches for a lost book that
contains the history of the Voulgaris Family.
The reader
conjures in vain for a dusty, weighty tome,
silver clasp securing its many secrets. Instead, the object of the quest
is “The Boulgaris Family of Hydra,” written by Ioannis Papamanolis in 1931.
After a series of misadventures, the book is found exactly where it as supposed
to be on the island for after all the Truth is not only out there but also lies
within, in both sense of the word and much more can be learned about a story
from its construction and the motivation behind its construction than from the
events related themselves. Especially so, since the book mentions a Damianos
Ghikas whose life and times seems to mysteriously mirror Ghikas Voulgaris’ own,
though they predate his by a few decades…
Along the
way, the author traverses another path of discovery, that of discovery of the
self, something that seems to be uniquely the preserve of the visitor to a land
whose completely unself-conscious native inhabitants have been born without an
inner monologue. The climax of the novel where the author proclaims: “I hear
the whisper of the Greek Chorus on the waves almost as if the island is
speaking to me: “She stood in the shadow of a pirate, yet she found the
outline of her own,” is as profound
as it is side-splittingly funny, coming as it does after a heavy earlier dose
of pirate jokes.
For it is
this that makes “Hydra in Winter,” a singularly unique and endearing book: It’s
quirky, quintessentially self-deprecating and ironic Aussie humour. The text is
literally dripping with quips, asides, wry observations and eye-wringing dad
jokes. This is an author who loves a challenge, will test herself to the utmost
and still in Antipodean fashion, refuses to take herself seriously.
Consequently, she is a boon travel companion: knowledgeable, positive,
entertaining and completely free from the psychological baggage that often afflicts
the more emotionally vampiric fellow traveller that one may chance upon during
one’s travels and from whom the only escape is to shut the book. Fascinatingly,
she freely admits to being as afraid of us as we are of her.
By
contrast, “Hydra in Winter” is a real page turner and if Shelley Dark, in
searching for Ghikas has come to realisation that she is an aspiring novelist,
she had better drop the adjective qualifying the noun with due speed and
urgency. Tantalisingly, her story ends with a cliffhanger – after all her
sleuthing and archival work on Hydra, leaving us high and dry (if you’ll pardon
the pun), inviting us to come with her to the place where the Original Sin of
our community took place: the island of Malta where the trial of Ghikas
Voulgaris for piracy was held and where he was convicted and sentenced. Knowing
what I know both about the trial and the history of the Greeks of Malta, I
can’t wait.
Ultimately,
“Hydra in Winter” causes us to reflect upon the traditional differences in the
way people understand history. Shelley Dark enters into a world of people who
can tell you in intimate detail what happened to Alexander the Great over two
thousand years ago but for whom the details of their family just a few
centuries ago is completely obscure. Perhaps there is some solace and security
in the historical amnesia that seems to frame our perspective. Nevertheless,
with Bertrand Russell’s “In Praise of Idleness” as her inspiration, Shelley
Dark engages in writing as being “about the sheer, ridiculous fun of making
things up and calling it work.” And we are all the richer for it.
DEAN
KALIMNIOU
kalymnios@hotmail.com
First published in NKEE on Saturday 17 May 2025