It seems that the Evzones are coming to Australia again and this time, in an egregious affront to the natural order of things, they will be visiting Sydney and Canberra while bypassing Melbourne, a city which, depending upon the enthusiasm of the master of ceremonies, is either the third largest Greek city in the world, the largest Greek city outside Greece, the most Greek city outside Greece, or the only place outside Greece where one has reasonable prospects of obtaining a something that resembles a souvlaki after 2am, although I suspect Thessaloniki retains a considerable advantage in all four categories.
The news has caused consternation, with questions being asked, letters being written and feelings apparently hurt as members of our community attempt to comprehend how the motherland can dispatch its exquisitely accoutred Presidential Guard all the way to Australia and then permit them to pass Melbourne by. Sydney apparently merits a visitation, as does Canberra, whose principal contribution to Hellenism as far as I am aware consists of providing a convenient location in which Greek ambassadors may reside while contemplating how long it will take before they can return to Athens, yet Melbourne, home to generations of Greeks, countless organisations, churches, schools, brotherhoods, federations, festivals, factions and self-appointed fuhrers, must somehow struggle on without the consoling sight of tall young men goose-stepping in short skirts. I too am attempting to summon the requisite sense of outrage, although so far it has proved elusive.
This is largely because I adore the Evzones, having written about them, dressed like them, pursued them around community events and generally comported myself in their presence with all the dignity expected of a middle-aged solicitor and man of letters confronted by exceptionally tall men wearing four hundred pleats. During one of their previous Melbourne sojourns I found myself helping some of them change before an appearance, at which point one, weary of being photographed, admired and generally treated as though temporarily removed from a vitrine in the National Historical Museum, complained that people treated them like dolls or male models. “We have degrees, you know. If only you people loved us for our intellect,” he told me, leaving me chastened, for here was a highly educated young man seeking recognition for his mind while I was helping him adjust his foustanella, an inversion of the Platonic ascent in which, rather than proceeding from the contemplation of bodily beauty towards Beauty itself, we Greek-Australians appeared perfectly content to stop somewhere around the pleats.
His complaint exposes a magnificent contradiction, for we become indignant when Australians reduce Greek culture to Zorba, souvlaki, islands and men in skirts, yet whenever said men in skirts arrive, we descend upon them in our thousands and disseminate photographs of ourselves beside them with such intensity that an anthropologist could reasonably conclude that the principal purpose of the diaspora is the conservation of the ceremonial male thigh. The ideological versatility involved is even more impressive, for people who oppose militarism, nationalism, standing armies, NATO, American bases and most varieties of imperialism become positively Alcibiadean when an Evzone enters the room, whereupon rifles acquire the innocence of folk accessories and hardened anti-imperialists capable of detecting fascism in the seating arrangements of a community dinner blush, swoon and request selfies. If Circe transformed the companions of Odysseus into swine, the foustanella performs a gentler metamorphosis upon the Greek-Australian Left, transforming committed dialectical materialists into breathless maidens of Brauron at approximately the speed required to unlock an iPhone camera.
The irony becomes richer when one remembers that Greek political vocabulary still contains the term Germanotsolias, for the collaborationist Security Battalions of the Occupation appropriated elements of the Evzone tradition, leaving behind a word capable of evoking one of the darkest fractures of modern Greek history. The costume can therefore summon revolutionary heroism, the Balkan Wars and the mountains of Epirus while carrying, through its appropriation, the shadow of collaboration, for Clio has always been an inconvenient Muse, more interested in recording contradiction than assisting communities with their commemorative programmes. Yet place six feet three inches of immaculately groomed Presidential Guard before a Greek-Australian audience and even Clio appears prepared to close her tablets and admire the spectacle.
The distress caused by their absence consequently tells us rather more about ourselves than about them, for somewhere within our diasporic consciousness persists the suspicion that authentic Greekness has a metropolitan issuing authority and that our certificates require periodic renewal. The Evzones arrive as bearers of that authentication, reassuring us that Greece remembers us and that despite generations spent speaking English, marrying people from Folegandros when our grandparents expressly forbade it and developing the conviction that Oakleigh constitutes an extraterritorial possession of the Hellenic Republic, we remain members in good standing of the greater Greek world. Their diversion to Sydney consequently assumes the dimensions of yiayia gifting the better χωράφι to a cousin.
Perhaps, however, their absence is a compliment, for after more than a century and a half of Greek settlement in Victoria, Athens may finally have concluded that we can be trusted to remain Greek without supervision. Someone may have examined Melbourne and observed churches, schools, newspapers, radio programmes, festivals, archives, libraries, writers, musicians, academics, poets, artists, choirs and enough committees to administer the late Byzantine Empire, before deciding that another shipment of foustanellades can safely be sent elsewhere. After all, Seferis never came to Melbourne, Elytis somehow neglected us, went to the trouble of travelling halfway around the world while inexplicably failing to drop into Oakleigh. We have survived these successive acts of metropolitan indifference with Hellenism more or less intact, so there is at least a reasonable prospect that we can endure the Evzones spending a week in another polis.
A more serious issue arises from the habit of seeking metropolitan authentication, because it teaches the next generation that cultural legitimacy resides elsewhere. Children smell weakness, and if we tell them that Greek-Australian identity is rich, self-sustaining and worthy of inheritance while behaving as though Athens can diminish it merely by sending the Evzones to Sydney, they will identify the contradiction immediately. We become rather like the inhabitants of Plato's cave, awaiting the next procession of metropolitan shadows across the wall and arguing furiously over which constitutes the most authentic representation of Greece, while overlooking the culture already being produced around us.
Rebetika is being played at Triakosia by musicians treating the tradition as something living, books are being written here by people articulating experiences that could have arisen nowhere else, while increasingly sophisticated discussions concerning Greek-Australian history, language, literature and identity are taking place. We even possess hordes of people monitoring one another on social media, identifying subversive remarks and conveying them to their respective superiors for immediate ghosting, proving that Athenian ostracism has survived transplantation remarkably well, save that the ostrakon has been replaced by the screenshot and ten years of exile by removal from the friends list. With such fidelity to ancestral political practice, exactly how many additional Evzones does our civilisation require?
Years ago I suggested that rather than repeatedly spending considerable sums importing Evzones, we should establish our own guard composed of Greek-Australian young people, allowing them to learn the history, wear the costumes and become stakeholders in their community rather than spectators applauding authenticity flown in from Athens. Demosthenis Manasis actually did something about it, creating the ‘Froura’ and thereby demonstrating the dangers inherent in taking one of my suggestions seriously. His initiative matters because the young people wearing the costumes are ours and inhabit the same hybrid cultural world as those watching them; in this respect Manasis has performed something resembling the theft of fire by Prometheus, save that the sacred technology wrested from the metropolitan gods consists principally of pleats, tsarouchia and the capacity to stand motionless for considerable periods.
Indeed, if Evzones are indispensable, the only ones I particularly want to see are those who have reconciled the foustanella with denim, as their counterparts in Albania have done in the accompanying photograph, where traditional dress is magnificently interrupted by blue jeans protruding beneath the pleats. Here, finally, is a Hellenism I can embrace, sufficiently secure to survive contact with denim, a sartorial synthesis worthy of Heraclitus, in which foustanella and jeans, permanence and change, coexist while the river flows on and the clarinet keeps playing. If our identity cannot withstand such innovation, the absence of the Presidential Guard constitutes the least of our problems.
There is also the question of frequency, for nobody is suggesting that the Evzones should be banished permanently from our shores and the sight of them once in a while is splendid. The problem begins when a ceremonial visit acquires the regularity of a touring franchise and the Presidential Guard starts to resemble the Hellenic answer to Cirque du Soleil or Disney on Ice, returning annually with the same costumes, the same choreography and an audience eagerly awaiting the moment when somebody performs the difficult manoeuvre involving the pom-pommed ice-skate. At some point we are entitled to discuss production values. If the Evzones are to become a fixture of the Greek-Australian entertainment calendar, surely each season requires fresh material, a revised programme or at least the occasional guest performer, because even Cirque du Soleil understands that one cannot tour the same spectacle indefinitely merely by changing the dignitaries in the front row. The Panathenaic procession itself occurred only once every four years, which suggests that even the ancient Athenians, hardly a people deficient in ceremonial self-regard, understood the dramatic importance of leaving the audience wanting more.
Such repetition also inadvertently vindicates the young Evzone who complained to me that they were being treated as dolls and male models, because somewhere along the way soldiers invited here as symbols have become performers whose absence from the next season causes patrons to demand explanations. Affection for a symbol, however, can become dependence upon it, allowing such visits to perform cultural labour that properly belongs to us.
The ancient Greeks, whom we invoke whenever convenient and return respectfully to storage whenever they become troublesome, understood this rather well, for their apoikiai remained recognisably Greek while developing institutions, cults, dialects and identities particular to their own circumstances. Syracuse required no annual delegation from Corinth to reassure its inhabitants of their Hellenicity, nor did Massalia suspend its Greekness pending the arrival of appropriately credentialled Phocaeans. The Greek world expanded precisely because Greekness proved capable of adaptation, and after generations in Australia we might finally concede ourselves the same privilege rather than measuring our cultural vitality according to the frequency with which representatives of the metropolitan centre come to inspect us. Faced with such abundance of natic cultural capital, I remain uncertain how much more Hellenism one city can safely withstand.
Besides, Cavafy understood better than most the melancholy truth that male beauty is transient, however fervently one attempts to preserve it through memory, poetry and art, and thus the Evzones will grow older, the immaculate symmetry of their youthful forms will pass and even those magnificent legs must eventually submit to Chronos, while the culture we create here, provided we possess sufficient confidence to make it our own and sufficient wisdom to entrust it to our children, has at least the possibility of enduring. Until then, Sydney is welcome to contemplate the foustanelles on our behalf, while we shall console ourselves, in appropriately Cavafian fashion, with his immortal words, θυμήσου σώμα.
DEAN KALIMNIOU
kalymnios@hotmail.com
First published in NKEE on Saturday 26 September 2026